MFW | Secretly Sexy - Gucci Menswear FW14 Photos and Review

It's not common to see Gucci's collections to act so understatedly. The modest approach to sexy is welcoming for Gucci to change up what was revolutionary and bold.. back in the 90s. With softer tones and cuttings, Giannini shows off some intricacies of menswear design in the fall 2014 collection at Milan Fashion Week. The colour palette of less vibrant pastel colours suit the fall winter season well.

With cleaner silhouettes and Anglomanian coats, the collection strengthens the trends at Milan. The most outstanding feature may be those oversized buttons.

MFW | Light Flight - Les Hommes Menswear FW14 Photos and Review

The elegance and a touch of avant-garde in menswear is on trend at Milan Fashion Week. The Belgian powerhouse creatives at the Les Hommes' FW14 collection looked at matching up the sleek and timeless black with soft patterns and contrasting textures. The delicate effect of crane prints and the use of silk is powerfully vulnerable. Oversized items and contrasting textures also work well in a look that is still quite modest.

The large scarves around the shoulder is quite a feminine addition to the looks, yet the sophistication and structure in the rest of the outfit is quite masculine. Bomber jackets and sweaters boast confidence contrasted with vulnerability. The subtleties in this collection highlight the runway looks and it is the discrete and classy additions which make the show.

MFW | Winter's Dose of Luxe - Fendi Menswear FW14 Photos and Review

'Luxurious' is understating the Fendi collection. Fur and leather backed by timeless Anglomanian designs swept the fall 2014 collections at Milan Fashion Week. The styling in the runway show was amazing. Speckled knits and voluminous materials in the jackets created perfect winter looks. The play of layering could not have been more stylish - there is just the right amount of piling on in the runway looks which transforms readily to everyday fashion.

The beauty for Fendi is also in its accessories. Fresh, bold, yet classic duffle bags and powerfully luxe sneakers are the best ways to break into luxurious mens fashion. I love the speckled grey on black the most.

MFW | Worldwide World-Class Menswear - Ermenegildo Zegna Menswear FW14 Photos and Review

The quilted trend continues in FW14 in Milan Fashion Week and it's so strong in winter because the padding is both utilitarian and stylish. Quilted jackets look great because it is such an on-trend style that it adds instant flavour to any look. Super thick knitwear in generous cuts and winter style bombers which copycat suit jackets brought an exciting new element to the show. The masters of fine tailoring taking up new fashion directions to appeal to more casual but still sophisticated clients.

Staple wardrobe colours of black, navy and tan are perfect for winter along with wide lapel jackets which still keep the season fresh. The runway shows off a lot of utilitarian styles with the padded jackets and thick materials that can easily be incorporated to an existing look.

MFW | The Colours of Autumn - Prada Menswear FW14 Photos and Review

For Prada's Menswear FW14 at Milan Fashion Week, the details were in the scarves and collars. The solid colours and the way of the scarves is a reminder of the 70s. I feel that much of seventies fashion and culture is dominated by American appeal - these sharp collars, wide lapels and round lapels work excellently with Prada's colours. They've been doing solid colours for a while now and it didn't slow down this season.

Bask in a collection of beautifully vibrant colours and energy. While Prada pushed for bralettes in the ladies collection for SS14, the introduction of the strapped vests for men is a parallel concept. Prada wants to have an IT item each season to keep you guessing - although the wearability and appeal of the scarves alongside the way that they were styled in the runway looks might just be that IT item instead. Lately you don't know what to expect from Prada, well except nice bags and dress shoes season after season.

MFW | Rodeo Luxe - Versace Menswear FW14 Photos and Review

The idea of cowboys seem to always re-appear in fashion because of a timeless material - leather. This FW14 season at Milan Fashion Week, Versace's take on cowboys and the wild-west is much more boastful and luxe. The dangerous attitude and powerful appeal of high fashion through cycle helmets and leather suggests modern cowboys upgraded on their trusty motorcycles.

While the most talked about pieces were of course the unexpected chaparreras, the theming cannot be any truer to this powerhouse label boasting confidence and sexy. The runway looks also incorporated the (often lamented) turtle neck amazingly. And of course, luxurious detailing with black and gold is always the strongest for this house. Chunky accessories, embellishments and sewn on details were on the mind of the Sheriff of Milano City Fashion, Donatella Versace.

MFW | Detention in Fashion - DSquared FW14 Photos and Review

I love the efforts put into DSquared looks and garments every season because each piece is so distinct yet holds together well as a show. I love the ladies DSquared shows too. In menswear I go for their accessories and shoes which are much easier in making the transition between runway to your local street because everything is quite loud. Yet at the same time, the power, confidence and over the top-ness is what I adore from DSquare collections. The theatrical show of FW14, Milan Fashion Week - prison cells and mental asylums is a daring take on fashion.

DSquared is all about sex appeal in all their shows. And the sexiest thing to sell is confidence and glamourous clothes. I feel that DSquared is really focused on gender roles too - the menswear has extremely masculine pieces whereas the ladies are all about North American (the continent) luxe.

MFW | True Obsession - Calvin Klein Collection FW14 Photos and Review

Let's kick off Milan Fashion Week with a bit of Calvin Klein coolness, or rather, warmness for their Autumn Fall Winter 2014 collection. The show emphasised looks which were super utilitarian without sacrificing any points on style. Huge jackets and pullovers in earthy tones stamped across with bold logos were the highlights. But note, logos with a twist, as it's not a plain stamp of CK or Calvin Klein but of their coveted fragrances.
My favourite is the dark olive oversized Obsession sweatshirt and maybe the stylist was a little obsessed with layering - jackets over jackets over sweatshirts over shirts!

The runway looks began with wide pants and then switched over to more tailored fittings. Overall, all the garments were very masculine with strong lines and the oversize motif. The warm and fuzzy textures at play were very modest in bringing over the (much needed) utilitarian aspects of fashion. I don't know, maybe it was the cross-promotion that got me going. Don't be fooled by the 'dull' tones of the looks - these neutral colours can readily be added to anyone's wardrobe.

PFW | Clean Fall - Bill Tornade FW14 Review

A show of lean and clean silhouette as a timeless basis for Bill Tornade, the AW14 collection at Paris Fashion Week was one of the most appealing and bankable runways. The suit was the definite focus at the show but not without playful additions of colour-block sweaters, sneakers, and brushes of leather as a modern update. The collection showed off so many wearable looks and pieces which can add to anyone's wardrobe.

This collection is for the man who is casual and cool, yet dressy and smart. Almost everything hugs the body quite well for a clean-cut and fresh look.

PFW | The Best of Avant-Garde - Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto, Thom Browne Menswear FW14 Review

Avant-garde shows are so good for people who love window shopping and seeing all the things you wouldn't really wear. No really I love watching the menswear shows at Paris FOR avant-garde. It's really interesting to see what's going on and because they're often so iconic and instantly recognisable, they can mark times in fashion and it's quite fun to talk about them. In experimentation, there's such a fine line between new, refreshing, quirky, special, and being too conceptual and poorly received. In any event, the more experimental styles are best in Paris, home of fashion and haute couture. These shows are often very theatrical and special in its themes and so they're really really enjoyable.

The best avant-garde AW14 collections at Paris Fashion Week were from Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Thom Browne.

PFW | Print Me! - Lanvin Menswear FW14 Review

Mystery can be the best asset to a man. With a modest and toned down notion of style, silhouettes and shadow prints in Lanvin's AW14 collection at Paris Fashion Week introduced some of the most covetable pieces in prints.

There were jackets of almost every shape and fit - the panels of leather and fur were the most interesting. Collared shirts, tips and the innovative Lanvin accessories spelled out their theme in the collection: individualism.

PFW | Re-Creation - Valentino Menswear FW14 Review

Valentino is one of my favourite labels for its luxe and elegance. From their sunglasses to their bags, I always find that their accessories are so interesting.  In the AW14 menswear collection at Paris Fashion Week, Valentino centred creativity on remaking traditional and well known pieces. Most of the pieces are quite modest with a somewhat relaxed fitting. The coats are very couture with blocks and prints but still very wearable. The collection played with a safer palette in a man's wardrobe with navy, tan, brown and black.

PFW | Printclashes and Matches - Dior Homme FW14 Review

The label's big gun in menswear, Mr Kris Van Assche did stronger for this collection than his own, preserving the elegant and high-end tailoring of what we've come to expect of Dior Homme while bringing in a punch of youthful and playful energy. The AW14 collection at Paris Fashion Week displayed effortless and beautiful tailoring along with iconic prints of florals, scribbles and spots. Although the basic colour scheme is the 'can't go wrong' colour for a man's wardrobe, the navy suit will never look the same again.

Looking at the shots, its hard to miss the transitions from traditional and formal tailoring to more casual and street oriented styles.

PFW | Speed It Up - John Galliano Menswear FW14 Review

John Galliano, the label now headed by Bill Gaytten delivered exciting and new menswear at Paris Fashion Week 2014. The AW14 collection showcased one of my favourite pieces in the entire week, the navy diamond print blazer. Most top-heavy looks were very enjoyable. It was interesting to see cycle tights on the runway but I'm not really sure about on the streets.

Colour blocking was a strong theme fitting in nicely with the 'active' and speedy motif with those cycle pants. The navy diamond blazer was so good with a white shirt for a classic, modest but modern look - even though it wouldn't really be John Galliano without some bold and over the top elements.

PFW | Point Wild West - 3.1 Phillip Lim Menswear FW14 Review

The West has been reinvented by the East. 3.1 Phillip Lim's ready-to-wear mens AW14 collection at Paris Fashion Week drew on themes of the wild west. This along with effortless street style luxe, the label's true excellence is at ready-to-wear and is still one of the strongest this season.

The label's cowboys sport some modern oversized pieces with a generous sprinkle of prints and patterns. Denim, leather and knits are key in the collection, creating volume and contrast.

PFW | The Parisian Air - agnès b. Menswear FW14 Review

Dramatic and theatrical, the AW14 collection from agnès b. at Paris Fashion Week showcased the eternal quirkiness of Parisian style. Black and white and berets as recurring motifs, complemented with splashes of colour here and there - the label did an excellent job with prints too. There was so much diversity in the garments (wide pants, skinny ones, large coats, small jackets) and it was great to see so many pairs of shoes. Even though some pieces were really bold, the looks were mainly quite timid and gentle - I guess it's agnès b.'s style of importing elements of womenswear into mens.

Although the make-up was initially too distracting, the show's adventure between dressy and casual styles created a really satisfying mix.

PFW | Fashion of Proportions - Cerruti Menswear FW14 Review

With heritage in luxury designs and accessories, Cerruti's ready-to-wear menswear at Paris Fashion Week for the AW14 season drew inspiration from muted dark hues. The show's highlight was in the creative approach to proportions in a look. Long and draped-over coats paired with cropped pants transformed the ideas of Spring into Autumn. I really enjoyed the drop crotch pants together with a fitted jumper - the contrast in the look is so understatedly cool. Sophistication in the collection lies in the prints and cutting. Timeless big checks and houndstooth in a classy brown blanketed the models on the runway.

Layering was definitely an important theme in the show. The play with proportions and lengths continue - some of the jackets over long coats were interesting but impractical and somewhat nonsensical.

PFW | Leather and Luxe - Hermès Menswear FW14 Review

I don't always find Hermès particularly interesting - more so in their shoes and accessories - but the approach to all things luxe and contemporary in the AW14 collection at Paris Fashion Week was so undoubtedly strong. Understated and modest, the label created these pieces with luxurious materials - as you'd expect no less.

The runway showcased very sellable and safe pieces (as they're classic styles), as well as the creative use of materials. It's beautiful when menswear is so modest and effortless - it's really a way of sophistication transcending the garments.

PFW | 5 Trends at Paris Fashion Week Mens - Wrap up for Menswear FW14

Arguably the biggest menswear event of every season, Paris Fashion Week Autumn Winter 2014 welcomes a few quite utilitarian trends. The best thing about PFW really is in menswear, namely in avant-garde menswear. Daring labels like Issey Miyake and Yohji Yamamoto from the East come to showcase their most interesting ideas. Moreover, the surreal Thom Browne show was really a stand out.

Looking more to prêt-à-porter, many classic labels like Hermes and Cerruti pushed out strong and timeless pieces. And for more contemporary style, the best came from agnes b., 3.1 Phillip Lim and John Galliano. Nonetheless, I really enjoyed the collections from Dior Homme, Valentino, Lanvin and Bill Tornade. View the pictures of Paris Fashion Week Menswear here.

Check out the highlights  after the jump.

LCM | Wardrobe Chameleon - Oliver Spencer FW14 Review

Last one... so sorry (to myself) that this almost spanned over two months. Everything got a bit hectic and I was too distracted to come back and didn't want to commit. Anyway the great thing about Oliver Spencer's designs is his approach to tailoring which is inherently British but his pieces have influences from America and the East. Another great aspect about this show and fashion shows in general is the persistence and mentality that the show must go on. Although there was misadventure with a burst pipe, the show returned to showcase some of the best match ups this AW14 season at the London Collections: Men.

So very into the quilted jacket and floral bomber.