Sunday, 21 June 2015

LCM | Trends and Highlights - SS16 Menswear Review (Part I - Coach, Agi and Sam, Alexander McQueen, Dunhill, Lou Dalton, Oliver Spencer, Gieves and Hawkes, Xander Zhou, Burberry Prorsum)

Yes, it’s that time again. The first of the four biggest and most influential shows in SS16 of menswear - London Collections: Men kicks us off the busiest week (month) of the calendar. But of course, behind the scenes and at the designing table, busy-ness is every day.

Part I: Coach, Agi and Sam, Alexander McQueen, Dunhill, Lou Dalton, Oliver Spencer, Gieves and Hawkes, Xander Zhou, Burberry Prorsum

Coach has become more contemporary as the seasons come at us relentlessly. Most interestingly was their expansion of different colours in more recent season. Last time we saw blue leathers (which were very popular) and this time, it’s thrown at us a few lava lamps. Of course we cannot get enough of the retro-feel and that is why fashion keeps giving it to us. Using this inspiration with neon colours is so now and the other tiger and cheetah prints* work so well with block colours too. Even though it’s the SS season, Coach also shows us some amazingly crafted jackets with patchwork that adds so much texture to the looks.
*(cheetah because they are spots, unlike leopard doughnuts, yes my animal knowledge is actually useful, no not really)
Coach SS16 Menswear Highlights

Agi and Sam
Agi and Sam SS16 Menswear Highlights

Alexander McQueen 
Alexander McQueen is definitely fashion royalty and there is no LCM without a special mention to this effortlessly innovative and stylish label. Season after season, the most talked about suits and dresses come from this one house. Embroidery and intricacy in detailing is the game here and this collection sees no shortage of that. The extravagant and eye-catching patterns are so fresh and they are complemented with perfect structure to achieve a dark sophistication.
Alexander McQueen SS16 Menswear Highlights

Dunhil consistently pushes for that Anglomanian look and no, it never gets boring. And if hats are ever coming back and staying, it’s because of Dunhill. Although Dunhill has consistently been doing well in its garment department, its specialty is in accessories and small leather goods. In a refusal to accept the current silhouette of slim-cut trousers, the brand is about heritage and so heritage it is, with classic fit trousers, suits and coats. The palette is also timeless and classic with deeper tones and earthy colours.
Dunhill SS16 Menswear Highlights

Lou Dalton
Lou Dalton SS16 Menswear Highlights

Oliver Spencer 
Oliver Spencer is one of my favourite currently-amazing modern designers with a huge and incredible fanbase. This collection is carefree and innovative with different pieces and patterns everywhere. Panel button-up shirts are quintessentially modern and they work extremely well with pattern sports jackets or bombers. Loose and cropped pants dominate the season, more-so than shorts. The colours for this season is also very dark and muted. An interesting choice for the SS seasons and quite a welcoming change too. He also designs some of my favourite things - chukka boots.
Oliver Spencer SS16 Menswear Highlights

Gieves and Hawkes
Gieves and Hawkes is one of the reasons why London Fashion Week is so respected. The heritage of Saville Row for impeccable and perfect tailoring is one aspect where London Fashion Week does so much more for menswear than any other. Gieves and Hawkes is one of the more prominent labels to move quickly into ready-to-wear while boasting a tailoring heritage along with others like Hardy Amies, Hackett and Paul Smith. This collection focuses on its ready-to-wear fashion and tackles traditional menswear with a contemporary edge. Driving this theme all the way is the presence of a graphic print t-shirt and bomber jackets, without any pocket squares or ties in the collection.
Gieves and Hawkes SS16 Menswear Highlights

Xander Zhou
Xander Zhou SS16 Menswear Highlights

Burberry Prorsum 
Burberry Prorsum is the mother of all British fashion because is it really London Fashion Week without it? Boasting the most beautifully simple, yet sophisticated shows, it is a sensation for (almost) all senses. A Burberry Prorsum show is more than just fashion, it is the liveliness of fashion and perfect ambiance set by music and the thrill of seeing what's next for the never-miss fashion house. Christopher Bailey is the best thing for London Fashion Week and season after season after season, the new and newer inventions of Burberry are realised by this man. This collection appeals to the visuals through so many dimension - a soft silhouette, an immaculate texture with lace, masculine and structured tailoring, and everlastingly iconic patterns for Burberry.
Burberry Prorsum SS16 Menswear Highlights

House of Holland, Hardy Amies, Casely-Hayford, Christopher Kane, Topman Design, YMC, J W Anderson, Belstaff, Baartman and Siegel, Tiger of Sweden

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