Sunday, 14 April 2013

MBFWA13 | New Generation: Desert Designs / FADDOUL / Natalie & Sarah / Tristan Mielle / Jamie Ashkar / The Letter Q / Betty Tran / Zhivago

The New Generation, a show of eight different labels came together at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Australia. The team at Desert designs, Jessica (FADDOUL), Natalie & Sarah, Tristan Mielle, Jamie Ashkar, Doris Qiu (The Letter Q), Betty Tran, and Lydia Tsvetnenko and Lara Kovacevich (Zhivago) had a great show and they presented some very strong pieces. Each label had their edge and something different about them and it was interesting for the audience to see what their spin on fashion this SS season was.

Overall, I enjoyed the shows of Desert Designs, The Letter Q and Zhivago the most.

Desert Designs
The show opened with Desert Designs which was great because it was artistic and theatrical. The pieces were inspired by desert prints and a contemporary twist on Aboriginal Australian art. The fabrics used were sheer and soft often with silk to give a flowy feel. I can see the desert wind in the pieces. They were perfect for SS. The prints were great and strong but at the same time, quite wearable (maybe not the whole piece all together). The show ended in an interesting way with a theatrical twist and the team at Desert Designs came out and greeted everyone down the runway.

Four great looks:

Jessica's designs in this line were very wearable and spring. The outfits revolved around large and simple floral prints and some with sheer black to boast the feminine silhouette. Floral prints are nothing new but the cuttings of the pieces make them very modern and chic. Great.

Great pieces:

Natalie & Sarah
I was excited to see N&S because I liked their logo haha. I liked the variety N&S presented and it showed off their talent in choosing fabrics and prints. There were many great pieces in the show which worked well individually and showed off the diversity of the label. The show opened with the skull dress and for a split second I felt that it was overdone but N&S has put in a twist with the colours and that was excellent in elevating the look. The hints of differenct colours in all the looks were great. Who was the stylist? The bangles were quite insane throughout.

Five great looks:

Tristan Mielle
Tristan Mielle's pieces looked very confident and strong. The fitting on the models were great complemented by the appropriate cutting to give an edgey chic-ness to an everyday look. I didn't really like the leopard prints that he used too much though. I liked the discrete round patterns that he used in some of his pieces which makes the whole look luxurious. The looks do feel very stylish and fashionable that they won't go out of season next season. Tristan Mielle's shoes also looked great. Hmm, one of the final pieces was like a toned down version of Bjork's swan dress by Marjan Pejoski.

My picks:

Jamie Ashkar
Ashkar's pieces involved innovative cutting to create a solid and chic look. The line seemed very structured and carefully planned. The cuttings gave the models an edge in their look and I loved the low cleavage-ness of the pieces which were confident and stylish. It is clear that there is a lot of skill in the cutting and structuring when you look at the textures created by them. It was a very likeable line which boasted talent but at the same time the looks were modest and chic.

Great pieces:

The Letter Q
I loved watching this show. The pieces were so wearable and likeable. Also, the clear plastic clutch was a great addition to the look, creating such an interesting twist to what was going on with other areas of the outfits. There were many great pieces but I can't help but think that Qiu was playing it quite safe with this one. The prints were very strong is creating depth and an illusion of texture. Most of the clothes were also quite artistic and pretty. The mix-up of different fabrics also gave a tasteful touch on the texture of the pieces and made the show very interesting to watch. The dresses were very summery with the way it was cut and with ruffles etc. and the silver boots were great too.

My Five favourite looks:

Betty Tran
I think I know what Tran was going for in this line - the classically effortless, perfect white woman with a perfect family and a successful corporate life. But I didn't really enjoy it. The show began with an opening sequence which was different to others and I'll give points for that, but I didn't enjoy it. It was too predictable and the line itself after watching the sequence, I felt that I often rolled my eyes in my head. The line's demo was probably more for older women but it still needs to be fresh. It wasn't. Some pieces were very feminine and womanly which isn't bad. However, the show felt slow and dragged out (maybe because of the opening sequence) and I usually like faster-fashion, the rush and upbeat music. I mean it is ready-to-wear, not avant garde.

Some of the better ones (I guess):

Zhivago put on a great show and a good end to the New Generation. Zhivago's line was actually quite dramatic and strong with clever ideas in their pieces. One of the most memorable pieces was the backless white dress below where the back of it was completely orange. This way, you see the white dress with hints of orange from the front and an orange dress with hints of white from the back, making it such an interesting piece to see. The photograph doesn't do it justice. Other notable pieces had a strong structure and I really liked the choice of fabrics. Clever cutting is also a strong point of this brand to create interest in the pieces. The orange skirt with a cut on the side was pretty cool.

Five great looks by Zhivago:

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